Last Murmurations of a Destroyed Wetland
It's getting harder to see the great clouds of migratory birds in Saemangeum estuary. The story of this 'reclaimed' wetland is all too familiar in S. Korea.
development
Barber From Another Era
Welcome to Seongwoo Barbershop, one of South Korea's oldest barbershops and a fascinating glimpse into a forgotten era within a rapidly changing country.
Plane Madness? Second Airport Plan Angers Jeju Islanders
As the transport ministry forges ahead with plans for a controversial second Jeju airport on the crowded island, locals appeal directly to the president.
Insadong: Breathing Its Last
Insadong in central Seoul is known as a preserve of Korea's traditional culture. But in reality old shops are closing or leaving.
Dispatch from Gumi: Park Geun-Hye’s Sins Taint Father’s Legacy
Park Geun-hye's role in the Choi Soon-sil scandal reverberates in Gumi, the country’s conservative heartland the birthplace of Park's revered father.
Haebangchon’s Forgotten Past: A Stairway, A Shrine and The War Dead
There’s a nondescript stairway on the outskirts of ‘the hip Haebangchon.’ The steps once led to a Shinto shrine for 7,000 spirits of Japan’s war dead.
Songdo: No Man’s City
If one were to go by a recent discussion in Reddit's Korea forum, the most bizarre city in South Korea would undoubtedly be Songdo.
Jjokbangchon: Where South Korea’s Destitute Live
The capital’s many districts host favela-esque "cubicle villages," called jjokbangchon in Korean. South Korea's destitute and vulnerable call them home.
My Search for Religion
South Korea’s hyper-growth winds down. Fewer people I know hold a rosy view of the future. Ranks of disillusioned spiritual seekers grow.
Changes at Famed Noryangjin Fish Market Ignite Struggle
Allegations of coercion, vandalism and a casino plan. Seoul's popular Noryangjin Seafood Market faces a crisis as merchants and the developer face off.
“Jae-gaebal”: Resisting Seoul’s Brutal Apart-ization
Urban redevelopment has taken a curious form in Seoul. Fully functioning and inhabited neighborhoods are razed with the consent of a bare majority. Explore the world of redevelopment - "jae-gaebal" -- and the role of hired goons known as "yongyeok."
When We Became Gangnam
They ruined once-beautiful Gangnam of my infancy, and Gangnam has ruined them in equally beautiful revenge.